Alpamayo and Quitaraju
One of the most prestigious climbing itineraries in the Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo – referred to as “the most beautiful mountain in the world” – is everything you have imagined and more! In teams of two climbers with our most experienced guides at the helm, an unforgettable 3-peak extravaganza awaits!
Start: Lima, Peru
Finish: Lima, Peru
Physical Rating: 5 Extreme
Alpamayo: Extremely Strenuous/Technical
Quitaraju: Extremely Strenuous/Technical
Total Nights in Mt: 8 nights
Lima to Lima: 15 days
Why You'll Love This Adventure?
The Cordillera Blanca is home to several mountains known around the world for their stunning beauty and exceptional climbing. Alpamayo is one of these illustrious peaks which attracts an international slurry of climbers each year, all hoping to ascend its southwest face and personally experience the grandeur they have seen in photos of this legendary mountain.
Just short of 6000 meters, Alpamayo is indeed a magical climb. With slopes up to 70 degrees of snow and ice, the climb is technical by nature and requires some previous experience. Our itinerary couples Alpamayo with an ascent of Quitaraju, which sits just to the east of the 5450 meter glacier high camp used for both summits. Quitaraju’s north face offers nice 40-55 degree snow climbing, and tops out at 6040 meters after a short traverse of the mountains knife-edge summit ridge.
This itinerary is dramatic, technical, and wonderfully exciting!
Add-on Artesonraju’s North Ridge if you have the time and energy to experience the Cordillera Blanca’s boldest & best!!
Is this experience right for you?
Day 1: Arrive Lima
Private pick-up at the Lima Airport. Transfer to your hotel in Lima for a nice meal & a good nights sleep.
Day 2: Travel to Huaraz
Private transfer in the morning to the bus station. Take a comfortable first class ride to Huaraz (approximately 8 hour journey). Move into your hotel and relax.
Day 3: Orientation and Acclimatization
Orientation meeting in your hotel in the morning to review your itinerary, answer questions, and finalize logistical details of the trip. Head out on a 4-hour acclimatization hike to the Puka Ventana (“red window”) outside of town, where you’ll get great views of the entire Cordillera Blanca range from North the South. Spend the night in your Huaraz hotel.
Day 4: Acclimatization
Day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4500 meters), approximately 5 hours of hiking round trip. Return to Huaraz, night in hotel.
Day 5: Huarapasca Single Day Climb
Head off on a single-day, technical glaciated climb up Huarapasca peak, departure at 3am & return to Huaraz by 5:30pm. Makes for great acclimatization and technical preparation for Alpamayo/Quitaraju.
Day 6: The Expedition Begins!
Pack your bags! Head out to the town of Cashapampa where you’ll load the donkeys with gear & supplies. Hike up the beautiful Santa Cruz valley camping near a big alpine lake en-route to Base Camp.
Day 7: Continue Approach To Basecamp
Continue the approach, arriving to the Base camp mid-afternoon. Get organized for the following days move up to moraine camp.
Day 8: Move To Moraine Camp
Ascend the steep moraine to the Moraine Camp (4900 meters).
Day 9: Move To Camp 1 On Glacier
Ascend up to the High Camp, perched on the snowy col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. (5300 meters)
Day 10: Alpamayo Summit Attempt
Alpamayo Summit Day!!! Depart from camp at 3:00am and head to the steep summit wall, which offers 360 meters of fun technical climbing to the summit.
Day 11: Rest, contingency day
Use this day to recover after your previous days summit or use it to climb.
Day 12: Quitaraju Summit Attempt
Summit day on nearby Quitaraju (6100m), which offers the same steep technical terrain as Alpamayo with a bit more elevation taboot!
Day 13: Descend to Basecamp
Pack up your camp and say goodbye to your icy bed! Begin the descent to moraine camp roped up, then onward down back to the Base Camp where low altitude and a cush camp set-up awaits your return.
Day 14: Hike Out, Return To Huaraz
Hike back out to Cashapampa, returning to Huaraz around 4:00pm. Check into your Hotel for hot and well-deserved shower. Meet again for a celebration feast that evening.
Day 15: Return to Lima, trip end
Last minute shopping for family and friends before departing for Lima at 11am, arriving at the airport or your hotel by 8pm.